Junya Watanabe MAN‘s Spring 2025 menswear collection is a masterclass in elevating denim and patchwork to new heights of formal sophistication. The acclaimed Japanese designer, known for his avant-garde approach, pushes the boundaries of black tie attire by infusing it with his signature deconstructed aesthetic.
Models strutted down a striking red triangular runway, channeling ’80s glam rock attitude in shaggy hairstyles, narrow sunglasses, and flared trousers. Watanabe’s tuxedo jackets were anything but traditional, spliced with panels of sequins, leather, and ornate embroidery. Denim in black, blue and white formed the core of the collection, transformed into unexpectedly formal silhouettes.
Collaborations played a key role, with Levi’s denim reworked into elongated frock coats and Tricker’s patent shoes grounding the looks. Vintage band tees by Scorpions, AC/DC and Black Sabbath were mashed up with foulard print scarves by Cactus Plant Flea Market for an edgy twist.
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While some pieces veered experimental, like denim jackets splayed onto woolen capes, the collection offered plenty of wearable options. Immaculately tailored trousers and dress shirts with origami-folded bibs demonstrated Watanabe’s knack for balancing innovation and accessibility.
The show crescendoed with an all-white final section, a pristine reinterpretation of earlier looks with workwear influences. Watanabe’s exploration of formalwear’s punk potential felt fresh and daring, solidifying his reputation as a visionary unafraid to subvert fashion norms. With this collection, he proves that in his masterful hands, even the humblest of fabrics can be transformed into something extraordinary.
© Photos: Junya Watanabe
