In fashion, no brand illustrates the cyclical nature of trends better than Burberry. Just seven months ago, Daniel Lee’s fall collection graced a faux grass runway in Victoria Park, with the then-CEO Jonathan Akeroyd and a host of celebrities in attendance. Fast forward to today, and the landscape at Burberry has shifted dramatically with the arrival of Joshua Schulman, the new CEO, who aims to revive the brand amidst a challenging luxury goods market.
The latest collection, unveiled for Spring 2025, is a testament to Lee’s adaptability and Schulman’s strategic vision. The show, held at the National Theatre, was a stark contrast to the grandiose affairs of the past. The venue, adorned with an installation by British artist Gary Hume, provided a stark yet fitting backdrop for the collection, which emphasized a balance between dream and reality.
Lee’s designs for Spring 2025 were marked by a sense of optimism and practicality. The signature Burberry trench coat was reimagined as a feather-collared capelet, while military-inspired pieces like drummer boy jackets and safari suits added a touch of rugged elegance. Fluttery dresses and skirts in taupe, tangerine, and smoky blue were paired with sequins, adding a dash of glamour to the utilitarian aesthetic.
The color palette for the season was carefully chosen to evoke a sense of summertime joy without losing the brand’s signature muted tones. Lee explained, “We were searching to bring more optimism, a sense of joy, lightness and summertime to Burberry, which isn’t typically a summertime brand. But the color still felt relevant.” This approach was also reflected in the accessories, with unlined, lightweight bags designed for everyday use.
Schulman’s influence was evident in the more commercial approach, with Lee noting, “We want the runway shows to feel like a dream, but we also want the clothing to feel like a real proposition, too.” This dual focus on creativity and practicality is a promising sign for Burberry’s future.
As Lee and Schulman navigate this new chapter, their partnership echoes the successful Anglo-American collaborations of Burberry’s past. With Schulman’s American optimism and Lee’s British design sensibility, the brand is poised for a resurgence. The talent is in place, and now it’s up to fortune to spin her wheel.
