Bob Dylan, a cultural icon with hits like “Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door,” is the subject of a new biopic, A Complete Unknown, directed by James Mangold and starring Timothée Chalamet. The film has sparked a unique collaboration between costume designer Arianne Phillips and Levi’s, the brand synonymous with authentic American style. The partnership focuses on recreating Dylan’s signature denim look.
Phillips explained her research process: “While researching costumes for the film, I kept noticing that Bob Dylan wore Levi’s consistently throughout his career, both on and off stage. So I worked with Paul O’Neill at Levi’s to help me source original Levi’s denim.” This observation led to a deep dive into the Levi’s archives, a treasure trove of denim history.
Paul O’Neill, Design Director of Levi’s Vintage Clothing, shared his excitement: “I was honored to consult on this film and work with Arianne and the team to authentically bring Bob Dylan’s early style to life.” His prior discovery of similar styles in the archives proved invaluable to the costume team.
Read More
The collaboration resulted in recreations of key pieces, including bootcut 501 jeans and a reproduction of the Super Slim Levi’s Dylan wore in 1965. Phillips noted that the evolution of Dylan’s style is reflected in Levi’s fits: “We see the silhouette of Levi’s change in the film alongside Dylan’s own evolution. From the fuller leg 501 jeans that Dylan wore when he first got his start in the NYC West Village folk scene in ’61, to the Super Slim jeans Dylan wore when famously going electric in ’65.”
Dylan’s connection to Levi’s goes beyond stage presence. The singer-songwriter’s personal style, influenced by figures like former girlfriend Suze Rotolo, played a crucial role. Phillips recounted how Rotolo influenced Dylan’s look: “She helped him figure out his style because his jeans were not fitting nicely over his boots. She literally cut the inside seam of his jeans and put an insert of another piece of denim so they’d fit nicely around the boot — and this was way before the denim flare.”
Another defining element of Dylan’s wardrobe was his suede jackets, a nod to his affinity for motorcycles and the open road. A tan jacket is featured prominently on the cover of his second album, The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan. This iconic piece is also part of the Levi’s collection worn by Chalamet in the film, along with the D-belt and boot-cut jeans.
Phillips’ dedication to authenticity led her to search for the exact Levi’s styles that Dylan favored. Unable to find them through vintage collectors or dealers, she turned to Levi’s own archives. There, O’Neill unearthed the sought-after styles: Lot 501 XX and the rare Lot 606 Super Slims, prized by Japanese denim collectors in the 1980s.
This discovery cemented the collaboration between O’Neill and Phillips and led to the creation of a special collection. O’Neill expressed his excitement: “It was exciting to reproduce Dylan’s original jeans with the inserted panel and include unique ephemera in the presentation, ensuring our new collection captures the film’s romantic themes while faithfully recreating the iconic Levi’s look of an unparalleled genius.”
This collaboration isn’t Levi’s first foray into Dylan-inspired fashion. In 2019, prior to the announcement of Mangold’s biopic, Levi’s produced a vintage capsule collection for the Asian market, accompanied by a coffee table book showcasing the looks. The collection was inspired by the Greenwich Village folk scene of the early 1960s, a period central to Dylan’s early career. Phillips noted the striking similarity between this collection and her work for the movie: “When I saw the book and collection, I was freaking out because it looked like our movie.”
The Levi’s Vintage Clothing x “A Complete Unknown” collection will be available soon.
