Peter Hawkings, who took over as creative director of the iconic Tom Ford brand last year, is exiting the company after presenting just two collections. Hawkings had worked closely with Tom Ford himself for over 20 years, starting as a menswear design assistant at Gucci in 1998 before helping launch Ford’s eponymous label in 2006.
When Tom Ford stepped back from his brand in 2022, he handpicked Hawkings to succeed him, confident that his long-time collaborator would maintain the label’s signature blend of sleek tailoring and provocative glamour. “Peter is an incredibly talented leader with tremendous industry experience,” Tom Ford said at the time.
However, Peter Hawkings’ debut collection last September, while well-executed, was criticized by some as playing it too safe, revisiting Tom Ford’s greatest hits rather than bringing a fresh perspective. His sophomore effort this past February showed glimmers of a more distinctive vision emerging, but apparently not enough to secure his position long-term.
With Peter Hawkings’ departure, the future creative direction of the brand is once again an open question. The Ermenegildo Zegna Group, which owns Tom Ford Fashion, is actively searching for a successor to be announced soon. Chairman and CEO Gildo Zegna has ambitious plans to establish Tom Ford in the top echelon of global luxury fashion houses.
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To that end, ZEGNA recently appointed Lelio Gavazza, a seasoned executive from Bulgari, as CEO of Tom Ford Fashion. “Lelio’s world-class business acumen and outstanding luxury expertise will prove invaluable in the development of the Tom Ford brand globally,” said Gildo Zegna.
The turnover at Tom Ford reflects the increasingly high stakes and fast pace of today’s luxury fashion industry. With the brand now under the ownership of Estée Lauder Companies after a $2.8 billion acquisition, the pressure is on to scale up and deliver both creatively and commercially.
Whether the next creative director will come from within the brand’s ranks or be a splashy outside hire remains to be seen. But with Tom Ford‘s strong brand DNA and the resources of ZEGNA and Lauder behind it, the label seems poised to remain a major player in the fashion landscape, even as it navigates this latest transition.
