Jeanne Friot, the rising star of Paris fashion, presented her Spring 2025 “Idols” collection on the rooftop of her alma mater, Ecole Duperré. Drawing inspiration from queer icons like David Bowie, Grace Jones, Debbie Harry, and writers Françoise Sagan and Maggie Nelson, Friot paid homage to those who shaped her creative vision in the absence of relatable role models within the fashion industry.
The collection showcased Friot’s signature design elements, including her iconic belt dresses, reimagined in various fabrics and prints. Feather-fringed repurposed Levi’s swayed in the wind, while studded denim and leather-lined strapping hugged the models’ silhouettes. Asymmetric draped body-con dresses in pale yellow and silver added a fresh color palette to the mix, alongside punk-inspired kilts hand-dyed and pleated.
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Collaborations played a significant role in Friot’s Spring 2025 offerings. A capsule slogan T-shirt collection, “Love, Louder,” created in partnership with dating platform Tinder, aimed to support the NGO SOS Homophobie. Footwear brand Both joined forces with Friot on two bold over-the-knee boot designs, one echoing her signature belted aesthetic and another mimicking the seams of the season’s denim pieces.
Despite the challenges faced by young designers in the current market, Friot remains resilient. Her strong following in South Korea, support from Canadian retailer La Maison Simons, and thriving direct-to-consumer business have helped her navigate the collapse of multibrand retailers. However, the designer expressed concern over the rise of the far right in France and its potential impact on her ability to continue creating designs with clear political messages.
© Photos: JEANNE FRIOT