Francesco Risso’s Spring 2025 collection for Marni showcases his whimsical radicalism, blending the past with the present in a seamless, liturgical progression. Held at Marni’s headquarters, the show was a spectacle of understated elegance, devoid of the usual celebrity hysteria. Made entirely of cotton, the collection symbolizes resilience and embodies Risso’s quest for essential beauty.
The Viale Umbria showroom, with its raw walls and sparse layout, provided an ideal backdrop for the clothes to take center stage. Models navigated a labyrinthine arrangement of chairs with no defined path, while three grand pianos played live music composed by Risso’s friend Dev Hynes. The coed lineup began with tailored silhouettes in soft tones punctuated by splashes of black and white. Fitted blazers over leggings and cropped chemises worn backwards like capelets.
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Gradually, the designs transitioned into more voluminous shapes. Broad-shouldered jackets and tuxedos were paired with tight siren skirts with stiff ruffled hems, bringing a touch of ’50s couture. Hats added a touch of nostalgia without feeling dated. Risso’s approach to the collection was “more liturgical,” evoking the ritualistic nature of fashion shows from a bygone era.