Donatella Versace‘s latest collection is a breath of fresh air, channeling the power of positivity into her clothes. The Spring 2025 collection, shown at the 15th century Castello Sforzesco, is a riot of color and print, with a feel that’s more high street than luxury. The focus is on separates with a ’90s vibe that’s both casual and stylish.
For men, the collection offers a rave-ready wardrobe, complete with jeans, sheer floral shirts, lounge sets, Medusa-print leather jackets, silk cardigans and flip-flops worn with socks. Tailoring is elevated, with Italian precision seen in a shrunken baby blue double-breasted blazer and a lemon-yellow suit with flared trousers that’s unmistakably Versace.
The iconic metal mesh has been modernized, made from 3D-printed recycled nylon polymers and seen on a cool yellow-gold bustier dress and draped floral slips. Accessories have a new whimsy, with sculptural heels that resemble wine glass stems and Versace crystal perfume bottles. There are also flower fragment brooches made from recycled plastic bottles and cigarette butts, adding a touch of whimsy to the collection.
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The spring 1997 Versus collection, from Versace’s now-defunct younger diffusion line, was a reference point for the clashing colors and prints, slinky slips and shiny satins. Donatella Versace’s starting point for Spring 2025 was this collection, shown in New York in October ’96. She was drawn to the joyful moment of the ’90s, when there was freedom, happiness and not too much thinking.
Fast forward 28 years, and Versace is revisiting past collections with varying degrees of specificity. The Internet has helped make young people curious about the past, and fashion’s reissue phase has proven remarkably resilient. This collection feels youthful, with baby pastels, slip dress and cardigan combos, denim and shorts. There’s a deft and subtle use of color, exemplified by a man’s caramel camp shirt and lavender pants, and a woman’s copper tank and lilac skirt.
