Maria Koch, the creative director of the Berlin-based fashion label 032c, isn’t interested in fairytales. For Spring 2025, she presented a collection titled “Everything Counts,” a celebration of the messy, multifaceted reality of life. This ethos manifested not just in the clothes themselves, but in the entire show experience.
The venue was designed to evoke the gritty aftermath of a long Berlin rave, shutters drawn shut against the rising sun. This wasn’t mere aesthetic indulgence; it was a deliberate statement about authenticity. “I’m not very interested in living in a fantasy world,” Koch declared. “I named this collection ‘Everything Counts’ because considering everything is what makes it real.“
This commitment to realness extended beyond the set design. The soundtrack featured American musician Casey Spooner, and the show was cast by model Mona Tougaard, a friend of many of the models who walked the runway. This season marked Tougaard’s debut as 032c’s “artistic talent director,” a title that reflects the collaborative spirit Koch fosters at the brand.
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On the runway, the focus was on establishing a distinct 032c look. Koch described it as a uniform, but not in the traditional sense. Think sharp tailoring with a touch of office-wear formality, punctuated by unexpected details. A key element was the Bavarian janker jacket, a favorite of Koch’s, rendered in textured wool bouclé and adorned with embroidered graphics.
The collection offered a play on proportions. Low waistlines appeared on tailored suiting jumpsuits and army jackets, while monastic collars on workwear shirting added a touch of severity. The overall silhouette was noticeably sharper and more substantial compared to the flowy fabrics of the previous season, with several pieces constructed from cool, sturdy waxed leather.
What truly elevated the collection was the tension between the rave-inspired atmosphere and the semi-corporate clothing. This juxtaposition reflects a fascinating trend in contemporary fashion, and it’s an area where 032c could delve deeper. While straightforward casual pieces felt more like merch than high fashion, the collection truly soared when it embraced this duality.
© Photos: 032c
