Anthony Vaccarello’s latest offering for SAINT LAURENT Spring 2025 is a masterclass in redefining menswear elegance. The collection is centered around the tie, reinventing it as a symbol of modern sophistication. As I perused the pieces, I couldn’t help but marvel at how Vaccarello injected a sense of freshness into formal wear, making it feel both effortless and entirely appropriate for today’s fashion-forward man.
The ties in this collection are not just accessories; they are statements. Some are traditionally knotted, complementing crisp double-breasted jackets with natural shoulder lines. The accompanying high-waisted, slightly cropped trousers add a contemporary twist to classic suiting. The attention to detail is impeccable, right down to the highly polished shoes that complete the ensemble. Vaccarello makes it clear: this is a time for sophisticated dressing.
In other instances, ties are transformed into slender, silky strips of fabric that drape casually around the neck. These versions often match the shirts they accompany, which feature patterns such as stripes, paisleys and polka dots. The shirts themselves are daring, with a few extra buttons left undone for a subtle sensuality. Sometimes the patterned shirts and scarves are paired with faded jeans or belted sarongs, bringing a touch of relaxed chic to the collection.
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Eveningwear makes a statement with oversized romantic bows reminiscent of grand admirals. These adorn black suits, cut with the same slim silhouette as the daywear, and showcase Vaccarello’s keen ability to reinterpret the iconic “le smoking” that Yves Saint Laurent famously introduced decades ago.
The spirit of Yves Saint Laurent is palpable throughout the collection. Vaccarello delves into the founder’s personal style – the ties, the tailoring, the effortlessly cool yet slightly provocative vibe – and brings it into the present. This homage is not mere nostalgia; it’s a thoughtful integration that feels utterly contemporary.
What’s particularly fascinating is how Vaccarello explores the evolution of masculinity through fashion. Yves Saint Laurent himself was a pioneer whose personal style reflected the social changes of the late ’60s and early ’70s. He embodied a movement toward embracing individuality and breaking away from traditional masculinity. Vaccarello captures this essence, offering pieces that are not only stylish, but also resonate with today’s changing attitudes.
