The fashion industry has long been plagued by concerns over worker safety, particularly in countries like Pakistan and Bangladesh where garment manufacturing is a significant sector. In a move hailed as a victory by labor rights groups, Levi Strauss & Co. has signed the Pakistan Accord, a legally binding agreement aimed at replicating the safety improvements achieved by the Bangladesh Accord in Pakistan.
The Pakistan Accord, an offshoot of the International Accord on Safety and Health in the Textile and Garment Industry, was created to address safety concerns in Pakistan’s garment sector. The country has a notorious record of industrial tragedies, including the 2012 fire at Ali Enterprises that killed 250 garment workers. More recently, an explosion at a Levi’s supplier factory in Lahore killed one worker and injured four, underscoring the urgency of the situation.
Levi’s decision to sign the Pakistan Accord is significant given the brand’s size and influence in the industry. The company’s addition to the Accord, which includes 128 other brands and retailers, is expected to strengthen worker safety in its supply chain in Pakistan. Emily Stochl, Remake’s Vice President of Advocacy, said, “the signing of the Pakistan Accord by Levi’s marks a critical moment for American brands stepping up to protect their workers.“
The Accord ensures that the factories of apparel brands that have signed the Accord are inspected and that identified safety hazards are addressed. The program also includes a grievance mechanism and worker training to ensure factories are made safe. Levi’s has long been the target of intense campaigning by unions in Bangladesh and Pakistan, as well as unions and labor rights organizations around the world, to join the collective effort to improve factory safety.
While Levi’s decision to sign the Pakistan Accord is a positive step, labor rights groups are urging the company to make the same decision for workers in Bangladesh. Christie Miedema, Campaigns and Outreach Coordinator for the Clean Clothes Campaign, noted that Levi’s has chosen not to sign the Bangladesh Accord and has instead aligned itself with Nirapon, a workers’ hotline set up by brands that were unwilling to join the Accord.
The Pakistan Accord’s inspections and rigorous remediation program, as well as its grievance mechanism and worker training, will ensure that the factories where Levi’s produces are made safe. Zehra Khan, General Secretary of the Home-Based Women Workers Federation in Pakistan, said, “we’re happy that Levi’s finally listened to voices of workers and activists around the world telling the company to take responsibility for their workers’ safety.“
Levi’s decision to sign the Pakistan Accord shows the power of collective activism. The company’s commitment to making its supplier factories in Pakistan safe is a significant step forward, and labor rights groups are urging other brands to follow suit. Edgar Romney, Secretary-Treasurer of Workers United-SEIU, said, “workers United applauds Levi’s decision to join this lifesaving program. For far too long, workers in Pakistan who make Levi’s products have risked their lives just going to work.“
The Clean Clothes Campaign network encourages Levi’s to extend its commitment to workers in Bangladesh by joining the Accord there as well. This move would demonstrate a comprehensive approach to worker safety and be consistent with the brand’s stated values.