David Koma, the designer renowned for his audacious and graphic womenswear, has taken a bold step forward with the launch of his Spring 2025 menswear collection. This debut line transcends the boundaries of a singular aesthetic, instead offering a multifaceted exploration of masculinity for the contemporary man.
Koma emphasizes inclusivity within the collection, ensuring there’s something to resonate with a broad spectrum of men. Age, profession, and background become irrelevant as the collection caters to a diverse audience. This commitment to variety is evident in the clear division between daywear and eveningwear, each segment boasting its own distinct personality.
The daywear section is a study in practical elegance. Think tough work pants and blazers crafted from two-toned, cracked leather, alongside dark denims and a sleek black leather stevedore’s jacket. These pieces exude a utilitarian charm, perfect for the modern man who prioritizes both style and functionality.
Nightwear takes a dramatic turn, drawing inspiration from the world of artistic performance. Koma infuses elements from Jiří Kylián’s mesmerizing ballet, Sarabande, creating a captivating blend of classic and contemporary influences. T-shirts adorned with silhouetted photographs of dancers add a touch of artistry, while black boxer shorts embellished with crystals and black leather brief-bloomers introduce a playful sense of humor and fantasy. Vests constructed from embroidered crystal mesh and a luxurious baby deerskin shirt subtly hint at Koma’s prowess in womenswear, blurring the lines between traditionally gendered fashion.
Accessories play a crucial role in completing the Spring 2025 look. Bulky bags crafted from black or scarlet marabou feathers offer a unique 2-in-1 functionality, transforming from handbags into statement headpieces. Footwear gets an edgy upgrade with shoes and boots featuring raised chisel toes.
A standout piece is the crinkled trench coat, meticulously crafted from treated papery cotton. This coat boasts a long loop of marabou threaded through one epaulet, creating a juxtaposition of ceremonial elegance and industrial chic. Further textural intrigue is introduced through marabou fringing adorning a lilac crystal-spotted button-up shirt, while a black satin blazer becomes enveloped in a shimmering haze of lurex thread.
The collection showcases David Koma’s masterful ability to combine seemingly disparate elements. We see the juxtaposition of hard lines softened with a touch of sensuality, evident in the T-shirt featuring a crystal outline of a corseted torso, or the black leather basketball shorts bisected by stainless steel rivets. This recurring theme of “abstracted sensual athleticism” becomes a signature element of the collection.
© Photos: David Koma