Ann Demeulemeester‘s Spring 2025 menswear collection, presented Saturday night in a raw, spacious venue near Montparnasse station, offered a nostalgic exploration of youthful freedom and musical influences.
Creative director Stefano Gallici, now in his third season, drew inspiration from his teenage years spent immersed in punk, indie and garage rock, echoing the spirit of icons such as Stevie Nicks.
The collection showcased a delicate balance of rawness and fragility, evident in the interplay of textures and layering. Thick leather coats and biker jackets were juxtaposed with printed silks and broderie anglaise. Crisp cotton and velvet panels met raw-cut hems on delicate knits. Tailored silhouettes were softened with ethereal shirts and lace handkerchiefs. Gallici reinterpreted the brand’s signature elongated shapes with fluid, sheer fabrics that emphasized movement and youthful ease. Sun-soaked, rumpled jersey and denim added a lived-in, casual attitude.
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While not every piece resonated perfectly, Gallici’s growing confidence in taking risks bodes well for the brand’s future. His unique perspective, rooted in punk rock and indie music, offers a refreshing alternative to streetwear and Instagram-driven aesthetics, attracting a niche community of like-minded young people.
The collection resonated with Ann Demeulemeester’s audience, who embraced the designer’s vision and the evocative atmosphere of the night.