WHO DECIDES WAR, the avant-garde fashion brand helmed by Everard Best and Tela D’Amore, has once again proven its mettle with its Spring 2025 collection. Known for its distressed denim and oversize streetwear looks, the brand has stepped out of its comfort zone, showcasing a new level of sophistication and elegance.
The Spring 2025 collection marks a significant shift for WHO DECIDES WAR. “This is a 180 — it’s a graduation,” said Best, emphasizing the brand’s evolution. The designers did not shy away from incorporating their signature elements like stained glass window motifs and distressed details, but they did so in a way that elevated their designs to a new level of refinement.
One of the standout features of the collection is the emphasis on tailoring. The Victorian power dressing theme was evident in pin-striped suits with stained glass cut-outs and vests with buckle detailing, giving a fresh and edgy take on formal menswear. These pieces not only exuded elegance but also maintained the cool factor that the brand is known for.
The collection also saw the debut of WHO DECIDES WAR’s collaboration with Pelle Pelle. This partnership produced custom leather jackets with colorful stitching, featuring images of iconic figures like Barack Obama, Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., Frederick Douglass, and Malcolm X. This collaboration added a touch of historical relevance and street credibility to the collection.
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The show itself was a spectacle, held in the Hall des Lumières, a former bank, where models climbed a steep flight of stairs to emerge onto the catwalk. The designers’ choice of venue reflected their theme of ascension, both in terms of quality and range. The grandeur of the surroundings set the tone for the collection, which drew inspiration from the Victorian age but filtered through Americana codes.
The collection also featured pieces that were artful rather than purely commercial. Alton Mason opened the show in a dreamy sweater made of upcycled knits and lace, paired with beautifully tailored pants. The brand’s signature cathedral window motif was made dimensional this season, adding a unique touch to men’s tailoring.
One of the central themes of the collection was the idea that beauty cannot exist without a bit of ruin. This was evident in pieces like the draped wedding gown with a pouf skirt in a Marie Antoinette style and the bandeau and ball skirt made of painstakingly distressed denim. These pieces not only had an ethereal beauty but also reflected the brand’s commitment to craft and subtle details.