Haider Ackermann, the renowned Colombian-born, Paris-based designer, has been appointed as the new creative director of Tom Ford, effective immediately. This announcement follows the sudden departure of Peter Hawkings, who held the position for just two seasons. Ackermann’s appointment brings a fresh wave of excitement to the fashion world, given his reputation for precise, sensual tailoring and a trend-setting palette of dusty pastels.
Ackermann’s career has been marked by notable collaborations and leadership roles. Most recently, he guest designed the Spring/Summer 2023 haute couture collection for Jean-Paul Gaultier and was named the first-ever creative director of Canada Goose in May. Prior to these roles, Ackermann helmed his namesake fashion label, which shuttered during the pandemic, and served as the creative director of LVMH’s Berluti brand for three seasons in the late 2010s.
Known for his affable nature and love for travel, Ackermann is a familiar face at fashion galas and red carpets, often accompanied by muses and celebrity clients such as Tilda Swinton and Timothée Chalamet. His appointment at Tom Ford comes with the blessing of the brand’s founder, who praised Ackermann’s work. “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work,” Ford said in a statement. “I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colorist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all he is modern.”
Haider Ackermann will lead Tom Ford’s design teams from Paris while continuing his role at Canada Goose on a part-time basis. The brand’s licensee, ZEGNA, has ambitious plans for Tom Ford Fashion, aiming to open 50 retail stores and invest in lifting its womenswear business. Womenswear currently accounts for one-third of the brand’s fashion revenues, which totaled €148.5 million ($165 million) in the first half of 2024, up 5 percent on an organic basis.
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The luxury industry is currently experiencing a broad slowdown, with China’s consumer economy in the doldrums and slowing growth and lingering inflation pinching shoppers in the West. Despite these challenges, Ackermann’s appointment is expected to bring a more radical update to the brand with his crisp, minimalist silhouettes. This shift could position Tom Ford to compete for a top-end, fashion-forward clientele, aligning with the ambitions of Estée Lauder and Zegna.
Haider Ackermann’s arrival at Tom Ford marks a significant change from Hawkings’ collections, which leaned into late 90s and noughties nostalgia to revive excitement in the brand. With Ackermann at the helm, Tom Ford is poised to attract a more fashion-forward clientele, competing with heavyweights like Gucci, Celine, and Saint Laurent. The question remains whether this niche can drive sales on the scale envisioned by Estée Lauder and ZEGNA.
