Celebrating 15 years at the helm of Balmain, Olivier Rousteing unveils a menswear collection for Balmain Resort 2025 that serves as a heartfelt tribute to the fashion house he has called home for over a decade. Renowned for his unapologetic glamour and streetwear edge, Rousteing has indelibly etched his signature style into the fabric of Balmain, and this collection reinforces his enduring connection to the house.
Handwritten calligraphy, reflecting Rousteing’s own elegant cursive, weaves throughout the collection, symbolizing his personal touch and affection for Balmain. “Yes, that’s my handwriting,” he confirmed, alluding to the script inked across various garments. His love of calligraphy dates back to his school days, when calligraphy lessons were one of his favorite subjects.
The collection features his handwriting as a design element, highlighting both long-standing and seasonal signatures. In menswear, the lettering appears in brass-toned metal brooches that shine on snow-white boucle jackets, and in intarsia patterns that run across monochrome T-shirts with piped sleeves and athletic details. The lettering also adorns collarless tailored jackets and smart lapel outerwear, adding a personal touch to classic silhouettes.
Rousteing’s penmanship narrates the collection with witty, self-referential details. Pin cushions are transformed into amulets, jewelry and shoe hardware, while tape measures are reimagined as spiral metal earrings and curved necklaces. Bags with sweatshirt neck openings, leather bikers spliced with denim truckers, and double-necked sweaters showcase Rousteing’s innovative approach to menswear design.
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Trompe l’oeil graphics play a major role, turning familiar, boldly tailored silhouettes on their head. Cropped blazers are hybridized with panels borrowed from leather motorcycle jackets and washed denim truckers, creating unexpected combinations. The ghostly image of his signature biker jeans is printed on the front and back of solid pants, blurring the lines between reality and illusion.
In the mix of trompe l’oeil, a charcoal gray T-shirt stands out with elegantly draped details that evoke the expertly carved garments of heroic statues from Greek and Roman antiquity. This piece exemplifies the fusion of classical artistry and modern design that Rousteing brings to Balmain.
In a display of maximalist sensibility, the second half of the collection features second-skin long-sleeved tops covered in iridescent sequins that form the image of a toned male torso. His handwriting is on full display as polished brass embellishments weave through the bodice and sleeves of black blazers. Huge strokes spelling out single words like “Amour” trace the lapels and collars of blazers, seeming to consume the garments with their enormity.
Speaking about his inspiration, Rousteing said the collection was “an exploration of my love for Balmain and my love for the atelier. When I designed it, I thought about when you are married for so long and you renew your vows to show everyone that you still feel that love. This is Balmain and this is my love letter.“
By incorporating personal elements such as his handwriting and drawing on the house’s classic black and gold codes, Rousteing reaffirms his commitment to pushing the boundaries of fashion. The collection serves not only as a showcase of innovative design, but also as a heartfelt message from a designer deeply connected to his craft.
